Honcho Crawler Simple Cage

Hi guys,

One quick note guys, and it pains me to say this, the WLToys 12428 has gotten REALLY expensive lately.  If you want my advice, this is NOT the time to buy one.  It is simply not worth $150 US.  If you want to build a crawler, do an SCX10 clone instead.

This is a simple roll cage for the WLToys Honcho conversion (or an SCX10 clone truck).  I set it up as cab mount or chassis mount, so take your pick.  PLA seems pretty durable but if you want a really tough part, try Solutech flexible filament (I think it's TPU).

Please read all the instructions before you start.  There is fitting involved and if you don't have experience doing this sort of thing you may end up painting yourself into a corner.  Make sure you understand the process.  Guys, if I can pull this off, you can pull this off.  Take your time, ask someone for help if you need it.

I used this Injora body shell.  It came packed in a box, so no damage in shipping.  It isn't the thickest polycarbonate ever, so I rate it as average.  I think it looks pretty good, so it works for me.  Mine is pretty beat up, as you can probably see in the pictures, so don't judge it to harshly for that.  The clear version does not come with window masks or any other stickers.  I've seen some complaints about the quality of the pre-painted ones, but for the price, I find it hard to believe they are that bad.  I don't have one to judge, just pictures, and the pictures look OK but not great.  Bottom line, this body shell is about as cheap as it gets aside from ones shipped in a plastic bag (they will be effed up when you get them), so I rate it as great if you're on a budget.

Update:  I now have a pre-painted Injora Ford shell and it is pretty dodgy.  I think it's fine as a beater shell, but the sides really let down the overall quality.  I'm OK with these shells for cheap, but if anyone starts getting ideas about selling them for top dollar, stay away.

Links to stuff you might want to buy:

• Injora Ford Truck body shell
• Solutech flexible filament
• Cordless rotary tool
• Cordless screwdriver
• Screws

A few cautions:

• If you don't know what you're doing and feeling nervous, get help from someone more experienced in the ways of DIY.
• Take apart your RC vehicle at your own risk.
• Follow these instructions at your own risk.
• Use common sense and review instructions before you follow them.
• Knives can cut you.  Use caution.
• Hot glue can burn you AND glue you.  Use caution.
• Brad nails can stab you.  Use caution.
• Rubber bands can shoot you in the eye.  Use caution.  Please tell me if this happens to you, I can always use a laugh.  It's funny if you aren't the victim.  That goes for just about everything on this list but a rubber band in the eye is the funniest. 
• Screw drivers can stab you.  Use caution.
• Drills can drill you.  Use caution.
• Soldering irons can solder you.  Use caution.
• Molten solder is like lava from a volcano.  Use caution.
• Fast spinning wheels or drills or rotary tools can tear the skin right off you.  Use caution.
• Forcing something that doesn't fit can cause damage to property or personal injury.  Use caution.
• Connecting electronics incorrectly can release the smoke.  The smoke can't be put back in.  Use caution.  Take pictures if you don't know by heart how parts are connected.
• Batteries can cause fires when not handled properly.  Use caution.
• Some parts are not very durable.  Screw holes may not survive taking a screw out and putting it back in.  Disassemble your RC car at your own risk.

Flexible filament settings (speed kills, baby):

1.6mm walls
65% infill
217 nozzle
55 bed
18mm/sec
200mm/sec travels
1mm retraction
Supports touching build plate

PLA Settings (heat is higher than usual for strength):

2mm walls

65% infill

215 nozzle (this is when stringing starts for me)

55 bed

50mm/sec

5mm retraction

Supports touching build plate

Parts:

1. 1x Cage2_Roll_Bar
2. 1x Cage_Roll_Bar_Mnt_V1
3. 1x Cage_Roll_Bar_Mnt_V1 mirrored 

OR

1. 1x Cage2_Roll_Bar_Cab_Mounted
2. 4x Cage_Mount_Nut_M2 (M2 hole)
1. or 4x Cage_Mount_Nut_M2_5 (M2.5 hole)

1. 1x Cage2_Center_Brace
2. 1x Cage2_Center_Brace_Lower
3. 1x Cage2_Chassis_Brace
4. 1x Cage2_Bumper_Mount
5. 2x Cage2_Side_Brace
6. 8x M2.5x20mm screws (slightly shorter will work, 4 can be longer)
7. 4x M2.5x15mm screws (slightly shorter or longer may work)
8. 2x small or medium zip tie

Instructions:

Note:  You will be drilling holes in your body shell.  If that hurts to think about, you may want to glue the cage to your body shell (Hot glue?  Rubber cement type glue?  I would not recommend this route).  Glue will not make for a durable result but it also won't wreck your body shell.  Also consider using the chassis mounted design.  I take no responsibility for your ability or inability to successfully install the cab mounted roll bar.

Note:  The parts shown in the pictures are my prototypes.

• The rear bumper mount is slightly longer so that it fits right to the end of the chassis rails.  
• The cage mount nuts are rectangular jobbies, not round ones.  If you want round ones, use the shock spacers from the 12428 Honcho conversion project.
• The final version of cage chassis brace is slightly narrower (length wise, not width wise)

1. Attach Cage2_Center_Brace_Lower to Cage2_Center_Brace using 2 M2.5x20mm screws
   
2. Test fit the roll bar to the body (hold it in place) and eyeball the fit
1. Does the cage line up with the rear of the truck?
2. Will the body sit properly on the body mounts?
3. You may need to make adjustments
3. You can drill holes in the body for the roll bar now or assemble the cage and test fit more precisely.  I drilled them at this point, because my cajones are huge.
1. There is no going back from drilled holes
2. I held the roll bar up to the body and drilled one of the upper corner holes first.  You may want to mark the spot for the hole in some way and then drill.  Be safe, use caution and don't do anything you are uncomfortable with.
4. Attach the previous assembly to the roll bar using 2 M2.5x20mm screws
   
5. Attach each Cage2_Side_Brace to the previous assembly using 2 M2.5x15mm screws
   
6. Remove your rear bumper mount if one is already installed
7. Loosely install Cage2_Bumper_Mount
   
8. Loosely install Cage2_Chassis_Brace between the frame rails in front of the rear shock mounts
9. Test fit the cage assembly with the body shell (attach cage with two sided tape or hold it in place)
1. Does the rear part of the cage line up correctly with the bumper mount when the body shell is on the body mounts?
1. Adjust body mounts accordingly
10. Once proper fit is determined, drill holes in body shell corresponding to mounting holes in roll cage
11. Attach roll cage assembly to body shell using 4 M2.5x20mm screws and 4 Cage_Mount_Nut_M2_5
    
12. Tighten rear bumper mount screws
13. Attach roll cage to rear bumper mount using zip ties if desired.  This allows the entire body assembly to pivot up.
    

Done like disco.

Wrench to drive or drive to wrench?