Hi guys,
This is an easy build, guys. I used a few non standard parts, mostly screws.
If you don't have a WPL already, you probably want to start with the C44KM. Why? It comes with the 2spd transmission, metal axles and metal driveshafts right out of the box. Those parts are getting silly expensive right now, so just pick up a complete kit and cut out the middle men driving up the prices. Links to the C24 and parts I used below.
Guys! You can build this project using the stock WPL C24 or C14 but you probably know that there are a lot of upgrades available. Build it however you want. This chassis is a lot lighter than the stock one so it will probably be more durable than the stock WPL. No promises, print quality is a big factor. Mine hasn't broken a 3D printed part yet.
If you don't want to read this guide, check out the build video.
2x - screw M2.5x10mm
12x - 3/4" 18ga brad nails
2x rubber bands
2-sided tape (dollar store)
Hot glue
215 temp (or whatever gets you to the point where stringing starts). Strength over beauty.
High infill.
Supports touching the build plate as needed.
2x Latch
1x latch bar
1x rear hinge
1x L_Side
1x Mirror of L_Side
1x Front_Latch_Bar
1x Batt_Tray
1x Servo_Tray_V2
If using plastic frame rails
2 x Chassis_Rail
If using stock frame rails
4 x Chassis_Spacer
This is an easy build, guys. I used a few non standard parts, mostly screws.
If you don't have a WPL already, you probably want to start with the C44KM. Why? It comes with the 2spd transmission, metal axles and metal driveshafts right out of the box. Those parts are getting silly expensive right now, so just pick up a complete kit and cut out the middle men driving up the prices. Links to the C24 and parts I used below.
Guys! You can build this project using the stock WPL C24 or C14 but you probably know that there are a lot of upgrades available. Build it however you want. This chassis is a lot lighter than the stock one so it will probably be more durable than the stock WPL. No promises, print quality is a big factor. Mine hasn't broken a 3D printed part yet.
If you don't want to read this guide, check out the build video.
A few cautions:
- Take apart your RTR WPL Crawler at your own risk.
- Follow these instructions at your own risk.
- Use common sense and review each instruction before you follow it.
- Hot glue can burn you. Use caution.
- Brad nails can stab you. Use caution.
- Rubber bands can shoot you in the eye. Use caution.
- Screw drivers can stab you. Use caution.
- Knives can cut you. Use caution.
- Forcing something that doesn't fit can cause damage to property or personal injury. Use caution.
- Connecting electronics incorrectly can release the smoke. The smoke can't be put back in. Use caution. Take pictures if you don't know by heart how parts are connected.
- Batteries can cause fires when not handled properly. Use caution.
- Some parts are not very durable. Screw holes may not survive taking a screw out and putting it back in. Disassemble your RC car at your own risk.
Parts:
8x - screw M2x12mm2x - screw M2.5x10mm
12x - 3/4" 18ga brad nails
2x rubber bands
2-sided tape (dollar store)
Hot glue
Parts and Optional Upgrades:
- C24 Kit
- 2Spd transmission, motor, servo
- ESC
- Austar AX6S radio and receiver (technically I already had the radio)
- 2S LIPO battery
- metal axle upgrade
- metal drive shaft upgrade
- sporty wheels and tires (don't fit the C24 very well but work great on the Beetle Bouncer chassis)
3D Printing
Lie down the bars and cage type parts to get strength along the tubes. You want to avoid standing up parts like a street lamp and slicing horizontally because one poor layer adhesion and it will break.Slicer settings for PLA:
2mm walls. You want these parts solid215 temp (or whatever gets you to the point where stringing starts). Strength over beauty.
High infill.
Supports touching the build plate as needed.
Print out your parts:
7x Cross_Bar_592x Latch
1x latch bar
1x rear hinge
1x L_Side
1x Mirror of L_Side
1x Front_Latch_Bar
1x Batt_Tray
1x Servo_Tray_V2
If using plastic frame rails
2 x Chassis_Rail
If using stock frame rails
4 x Chassis_Spacer
Take apart your WPL:
- Remove WPL body completely
- Remove wheels
- Detach steering link from servo (or remove servo horn, whichever is easier)
- Detach suspension from the chassis. Leave the links and shocks attached to the axles
- Remove transmission
- If you need screws, disassemble as needed. If you have extra screws, leave the WPL chassis assembled
Assembly:
- Attach chassis rails to servo tray using 2x WPL screws
- Install front latch bar between cage halves using 2x M2x12mm screw (Blue arrow)
- Install 6x crossbar_59 between cage halves using brad nails and hot glue (Red arrows)
- put a dab of hot glue on the crossbar and press a brad nail through the hole in the cage into the crossbar
- the cage flexes enough to let you do the same to the other side
- the hot glue can be peeled off if you make a mistake
- try a couple before you go to far (if needed)
- Install 2x Latch onto latch posts of servo tray using 2x M2x12mm scews
- Install battery tray between frame rails using 4x WPL screws
- Install front axle using 4x WPL screws for links
- Install front shocks using 2x M2.5x10mm screws
- Install rear axle using 6x WPL screws
- Install rear shocks using WPL screws
- Install transmission using 4x WPL screws
- connect driveshafts and lift transmission into place between chassis rails and then install screws
- Install servo using 2-sided tape or screws
- Install servo horn or steering link
- Install receiver using 2-sided tape
- Install ESC using 2-sided tape
- Install 2x rubber band in battery tray
- Attach rear hinge to crossbar_59 using 2x M2x12mm screw (See figure for step 2 and 3)
- Install rear hinge to chassis rails using 2x WPL screws
- Attach one side of cage to rear hinge crossbar_59 using M2x12mm screw
- Attach other side of cage to rear hinge crossbar_59 using M2x12mm screw
- Install tires
- Hook up battery and test
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