Skip to main content

Honcho Crawler Hoop Deck Back Half Roll Cage Build Guide

Hi guys,

One quick note guys, and it pains me to say this, the WLToys 12428 has gotten REALLY expensive lately.  If you want my advice, this is NOT the time to buy one.  It is simply not worth $150 US.  If you want to build a crawler, do an SCX10 clone instead.  If you already have a WLToys 12428, of course it's still a good option to mod it into something else if you've gotten bored.

This is a simple roll cage for the WLToys Honcho conversion (or pretty much any scale crawler including SCX10 clone trucks).  I set it up as cab mount or chassis mount, so take your pick.  PLA seems pretty durable but if you want a really tough part, try Solutech flexible filament (I think it's TPU).

Of Note:

  • There are two lengths on this cage, so pay attention to the parts you're printing.  Double check your measurements if you're printing this for something other than an SCX10 clone or RedCat Gen 8 because those are the two that I have actually measured.
  • I designed this cage from scratch so the mounting is slightly different than the standard Pro-Line Honcho back half.  
    • I included a cab mounted roll cage version with Pro-Line mount points in case anyone wants Pro-Line compatibility.  The upper mount points look a little goofy, but you get what you get.  
    • My cage is about 5mm wider overall and slightly narrower at the top mount points.  I didn't add bottom mount points as of this writing, but I may before I publish, so take that into consideration.
  • The chassis mount at the middle of the back half comes in an SCX10 clone version and RedCat Gen 8 version.  Depending on your chassis rails and desired body shell positioning, you may have to do some DIY to get it to work.
  • I set up the mounting with the cab farther forward than a lot of honcho crawlers are typically set up because I like the look better.
    • If you want the cab sitting farther back it's going to affect the mount points and you will likely need to mod the mid brace and the back end.
    • On the RedCat Gen 8 the chassis rails are longer in the back than SCX10 clone chassis rails so the effect on the fit would be a little bit less of an issue, BUT the mid brace would end up in the wrong spot.
    • Body mounts for the cage around the rear shock positions like the standard SCX10 mounting would solve these problems but I didn't have the measurements when I designed it and I haven't gotten around to modding the necessary parts.
      12428 SCX10 Clone, Proper Fit

      RedCat with a longer cage that fits well

      RedCat - This cage is too short with the short deck sides and if you sit the cab farther back the overall fit will be effected
  • Note that in the third picture above the body is sitting funny and the cage is slightly tilted because I didn't use spacers at the top cab mount points.  It sits flat when installed but it would be better to put in the spacers (too lazy to take it apart again right now).  FYI, the roll bar with the black and gold cab in the RedCat picture is identical, so the fit issue is just me not doing as good a job.

Please read all the instructions before you start.  There is fitting involved and if you don't have experience doing this sort of thing you may end up painting yourself into a corner.  Make sure you understand the process.  Guys, if I can pull this off, you can pull this off.  Take your time, ask someone for help if you need it.

I used this Injora body shell.  It came packed in a box, so no damage in shipping.  It isn't the thickest polycarbonate ever, so I rate it as average.  I think it looks pretty good, so it works for me.  Mine is pretty beat up, as you can probably see in the pictures, so don't judge it to harshly for that.  The clear version does not come with window masks or any other stickers.  I've seen some complaints about the quality of the pre-painted ones, but for the price, I find it hard to believe they are that bad.  I don't have one to judge, just pictures, and the pictures look OK but not great.  Bottom line, this body shell is about as cheap as it gets aside from ones shipped in a plastic bag (they will be effed up when you get them), so I rate it as great if you're on a budget.

Update:  I now have a pre-painted Injora Ford shell and it is pretty dodgy.  I think it's fine as a beater shell, but the sides really let down the overall quality.  I'm OK with these shells for cheap, but if anyone starts getting ideas about selling them for top dollar, stay away.

Links to stuff you might want to buy:

A few cautions:

  • If you don't know what you're doing and feeling nervous, get help from someone more experienced in the ways of DIY.
  • Take apart your RC vehicle at your own risk.
  • Follow these instructions at your own risk.
  • Use common sense and review instructions before you follow them.
  • Knives can cut you.  Use caution.
  • Hot glue can burn you AND glue you.  Use caution.
  • Brad nails can stab you.  Use caution.
  • Rubber bands can shoot you in the eye.  Use caution.  Please tell me if this happens to you, I can always use a laugh.  It's funny if you aren't the victim.  That goes for just about everything on this list but a rubber band in the eye is the funniest. 
  • Screw drivers can stab you.  Use caution.
  • Drills can drill you.  Use caution.
  • Soldering irons can solder you.  Use caution.
  • Molten solder is like lava from a volcano.  Use caution.
  • Fast spinning wheels or drills or rotary tools can tear the skin right off you.  Use caution.
  • Forcing something that doesn't fit can cause damage to property or personal injury.  Use caution.
  • Connecting electronics incorrectly can release the smoke.  The smoke can't be put back in.  Use caution.  Take pictures if you don't know by heart how parts are connected.
  • Batteries can cause fires when not handled properly.  Use caution.
  • Some parts are not very durable.  Screw holes may not survive taking a screw out and putting it back in.  Disassemble your RC car at your own risk.

Flexible filament settings (speed kills, baby):

1.6mm walls (or thicker for the roll bar and sides)
35-90% infill (heavy for the roll bar and sides)
217 nozzle
55 bed
18mm/sec
200mm/sec travels
1mm retraction
Supports touching build plate

PLA Settings (heat is higher than usual for strength):

2mm walls
65% infill (or higher)
215 nozzle (this is when stringing starts for me)
55 bed
50mm/sec
5mm retraction
Supports touching build plate

Parts:

  1. 1x CG3_Roll_Bar_Chassis_Mount
  2. 2x CG3_Roll_Bar_Mnt (1 mirrored)
OR
  1. 1x CG3_Roll_Bar_Cab_Mounted
  2. 4x Cage_Mount_Nut_M2 (M2 hole)
    1. or 4x Cage_Mount_Nut_M2_5 (M2.5 hole)
All versions:
  1. 2x CG3_Deck_Side (1 mirrored)
    1. or 2x CG3_Hoop_Side_Long (1 mirrored) 
    2. or 1x CG3_Deck_Hoop
  2. 2x CG3_Deck_Side_Upper (1 mirrored)
  3. 2x CG3_Deck_Side_Lower
  4. 1x CG3_Upper_Sides_Brace
  5. 1x CG3_Center_Brace
  6. 1x CG3_Center_Brace_Mount_SCX10 (SCX10 clone)
    1. or 1x CG3_Center_Brace_Mount_RdCt (RedCat Gen 8)
  7. 1x CG3_Tail_Cross
    1. or 1x CG3_Tail_Cross_V2
  8. 1x CG3_Bumper_Mount (Optional if you already have a standard bumper mount)
  9. 10x M2.5x20mm screws (slightly shorter will work, 4 can be longer)
  10. 12x M2.5x15mm screws (slightly shorter or longer may work)
As needed:
  1. 2x Cage_Spacer
    1. 5mm and 7.5mm provided, stretch if you need longer ones

Instructions:

Note:  You will be drilling holes in your body shell.  If that hurts to think about, you may want to glue the cage to your body shell (Hot glue?  Rubber cement type glue?  I would not recommend this route).  Glue will not make for a durable result but it also won't wreck your body shell.  Also consider using the chassis mounted design.  I take no responsibility for your ability or inability to successfully install the cab mounted roll bar.

Note:  The parts shown in the pictures are my prototypes.
  • The rear bumper mount is not the finished version.  You can use your existing if you have one.
  • The cage mount nuts are rectangular jobbies, not round ones.  If you want round ones, use the shock spacers from the 12428 Honcho conversion project.
  • The final version of the cage chassis brace is slightly narrower (length wise, not width wise)
  1. Attach the right side Cage3_Hoop_Side_V2 to Cage3_Roll_Bar_Cab_Mounted at the center mount hole on the vertical part of the roll bar with an M2.5x20mm screw.
    1. Note the positioning of the upper and lower side mount holes (lower more forward and upper more rearward).  Installed on the wrong side the hoop side piece will be upside down.

  2. Attach the left side Cage3_Hoop_Side_V2 to Cage3_Roll_Bar_Cab_Mounted at the center mount hole on the vertical part of the roll bar with an M2.5x20mm screw.
  3. Test fit the roll bar to the body (hold it in place) and eyeball the fit
    1. Does the cage line up with the rear of the truck?
    2. Will the body sit properly on the body mounts?
    3. You may need to make adjustments
  4. You can drill holes in the body for the roll bar now or assemble the rest of the cage and test fit more precisely.  I drilled them at this point, because my cajones are huge.
    1. There is no going back from drilled holes
    2. I held the roll bar up to the body and drilled one of the upper corner holes first.  
      1. You may want to mark the spot for the hole in some way and then drill.  
      2. Be safe, use caution and don't do anything you are uncomfortable with.
  5. Attach each Cage3_Deck_Side_Upper to the previous assembly using 1 M2.5x15mm screw and 1 M2.5x20mm screw.
    1. One 20mm screw to the top (roll bar) mount point, the 15mm to the hoop mount point.
    2. Check the angle of the hole for the cross brace to make sure the left and right sides are installed correctly (I can't recall for sure if they are different, but I think they are).  If you screw up and don't want to re-print or take it apart you can probably alter the holes with a drill and get away with it.  The angle is not very radical.
  6. Attach each Cage3_Deck_Side_Lower to the previous assembly using 1 M2.5x15mm screws and 1 M2.5x20mm screws.
    1. One screw to the bottom (roll bar) mount point (20mm screw), the other to the hoop mount point (15mm screw).
  7. Attach the Cage3_Upper_Sides_Brace to the previous assembly using 2 M2.5x15mm screws.
  8. Attache the Cage3_Center_Brace to the previous assembly using 2 M2.5x15mm screws.
  9. Attache the Cage3_Tail_Bucket_Cross to the previous assembly using 2 M2.5x15mm screws (not exactly as pictured).
  10. Loosen your rear bumper mount if one is already installed.
    1. On the RedCat Gen 8 you will need to remove the rear inner fenders.
  11. Loosely install the appropriate Cage3_Center_Brace_Mount between the frame rails in front of the rear shock mounts.
    1. For the RedCat Gen 8, install the center brace using the front mount points for the inner fenders.  Use the RedCat screws and thread them in approx the same distance as you would if you were installing the inner fenders.
  12. Loosely install Cage3_Bumper_Mount or your own.
    Note: this picture is for a different cage but the principle is the same.
  13. Test fit the cage assembly with the body shell (attach cage with two sided tape or hold it in place)
    1. Does the rear part of the cage line up correctly with the bumper mount when the body shell is on the body mounts?
      1. Adjust body mounts accordingly
  14. Once proper fit is determined, drill holes in body shell corresponding to mounting holes in roll cage
  15. Attach roll cage assembly to body shell using 4 M2.5x20mm screws and 4 Cage_Mount_Nut_M2_5
  16. Tighten rear bumper mount screws
Done like disco.

Wrench to drive or drive to wrench?

Comments

Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

$20 DIY GPS Speed Logger

Hi guys, This is a quick how to on my $20 GPS speed logger.  If it all goes smoothly you don't need much in the way of soldering and coding skills but if you run into problems it could be an adventure if you lack the knowledge base.  You have been warned. You can make this as pretty as you want, but mine is held together with hot glue and I used cork to make the case, so you can get away with some pretty dirty work-arounds if you're so inclined. There's a video here . Update (Nov15): I accidentally plugged in the wires with the wrong polarity and it didn't look good for a day or two.  The unit still powered up with the Adafruit logo, but that was it.  If you want to avoid this potential oopsy: use a proper power plug of some sort (proper meaning with polarity) Add a diode to the input to protect against wrong polarity I finally got around to hooking it up to my computer for diagnosis and SURPRISE, it works perfectly running off USB power.  So, doing the worst thing you
4 comments
Read more

WLToys 12428 Crawler Conversion Assembly (SCX10 Clone Assembly)

  This is an assembly guide for my WLToys 12428 crawler conversion project (SCX10 clone).  If you have questions about a standard SCX10, you can download the Axial manual from their website. One important note, friends.  Most people who build a crawler want to make it their own.  That's the thinking behind this project, so you're probably going to want to do a bit of tweaking to get this thing just the way you want it.  My thought was that this would be a cheap way to make a crawler for a person with a WLToys 12428 or a bunch of parts kicking around.  If you are starting from scratch, you may want to order a cheap Injora crawler chassis or buy something like a Redcat Gen 8 (the Redcat is a bargain where I live but lots of other crawlers are decent).  Personally, I think a lot of crawlers are kinda pricey for what you're getting, but without any drive train parts you can't really build a reliable RC car of any kind (IMO).  3D printed gears are a big waste of time unless
Post a Comment
Read more

WLToys 12428 Solid Front Axle Build Guide

Hey guys, This is a guide for putting together the WLToys 12428 solid front axle for the WLToys 12428 crawler conversion project.  The main difference between this axle and an Axial SCX10 clone axle is that the shock mount points are on top of the axle not on a shared screw with the four link mount.  This lowers the axle about 15mm and moves the shock mount forward about the same. A few cautions: If you don't know what you're doing and feeling nervous, get help from someone more experienced in the ways of DIY. Take apart your RC vehicle at your own risk. Follow these instructions at your own risk. Use common sense and review instructions before you follow them. Knives can cut you.  Use caution. Hot glue can burn you.  Use caution. Brad nails can stab you.  Use caution. Rubber bands can shoot you in the eye.  Use caution.  Please tell me if this happens to you, I can always use a laugh.  It's funny if you aren't the victim.  That goes for just about ev
Post a Comment
Read more