RedCat Gen8/SCX10 Clone Ford Honcho Back Half Assembly Instructions

Hi guys,

This is a simple roll cage for the RedCat Gen 8 (or pretty much any scale crawler including SCX10 clone trucks).  This cage is cab mounted.  PLA seems pretty durable but if you want a really tough part, try Solutech flexible filament (I think it's TPU).

Download the files here.

Of Note:

• I designed this cage from scratch so the mounting is slightly different than the standard Pro-Line Honcho back half.  
• I included a cab mounted roll cage version with Pro-Line mount points in case anyone wants Pro-Line compatibility.  The upper mount points look a little goofy, but you get what you get.  
• My cage is about 5mm wider overall and slightly narrower at the top mount points.  I didn't add bottom mount points as of this writing, but I may before I publish, so take that into consideration.
• The chassis mount at the middle of the back half comes in an SCX10 clone version and RedCat Gen 8 version.  Depending on your chassis rails and desired body shell positioning, you may have to do some DIY to get it to work.
• I set up the mounting with the cab farther forward than a lot of honcho crawlers are typically set up because I like the look better.
• If you want the cab sitting farther back it's going to affect the mount points and you will likely need to mod the mid brace and the back end.
• On the RedCat Gen 8 the chassis rails are longer in the back than SCX10 clone chassis rails so the effect on the fit would be a little bit less of an issue, BUT the mid brace would end up in the wrong spot.
• Body mounts for the cage around the rear shock positions like the standard SCX10 mounting would solve these problems but I didn't have the measurements when I designed it and I haven't gotten around to modding the necessary parts.

  

  12428 SCX10 Clone, Proper Fit

  
  

  

  RedCat with a longer cage that fits well

  
  

  

  RedCat - This cage is too short with the short deck sides and if you sit the cab farther back the overall fit will be effected

• Note that in the third picture above the body is sitting funny and the cage is slightly tilted because I didn't use spacers at the top cab mount points.  It sits flat when installed but it would be better to put in the spacers (too lazy to take it apart again right now).  FYI, the roll bar with the black and gold cab in the RedCat picture is identical, so the fit issue is just me not doing as good a job.

Please read all the instructions before you start.  There is fitting involved and if you don't have experience doing this sort of thing you may end up painting yourself into a corner.  Make sure you understand the process.  Guys, if I can pull this off, you can pull this off.  Take your time, ask someone for help if you need it.

I used this Injora body shell.  It came packed in a box, so no damage in shipping.  It isn't the thickest polycarbonate ever, so I rate it as average.  I think it looks pretty good, so it works for me.  Mine is pretty beat up, as you can probably see in the pictures, so don't judge it to harshly for that.  The clear version does not come with window masks or any other stickers.  I've seen some complaints about the quality of the pre-painted ones, but for the price, I find it hard to believe they are that bad.  I don't have one to judge, just pictures, and the pictures look OK but not great.  Bottom line, this body shell is about as cheap as it gets aside from ones shipped in a plastic bag (they will be effed up when you get them), so I rate it as great if you're on a budget.

Update:  I now have a pre-painted Injora Ford shell and it is pretty dodgy.  I think it's fine as a beater shell, but the sides really let down the overall quality.  I'm OK with these shells for cheap, but if anyone starts getting ideas about selling them for top dollar, stay away.

Links to stuff you might want to buy:

• Injora Ford Truck body shell
• Solutech flexible filament
• Cordless rotary tool
• Cordless screwdriver
• Screws

A few cautions:

• If you don't know what you're doing and feeling nervous, get help from someone more experienced in the ways of DIY.
• Take apart your RC vehicle at your own risk.
• Follow these instructions at your own risk.
• Use common sense and review instructions before you follow them.
• Knives can cut you.  Use caution.
• Hot glue can burn you AND glue you.  Use caution.
• Brad nails can stab you.  Use caution.
• Rubber bands can shoot you in the eye.  Use caution.  Please tell me if this happens to you, I can always use a laugh.  It's funny if you aren't the victim.  That goes for just about everything on this list but a rubber band in the eye is the funniest. 
• Screw drivers can stab you.  Use caution.
• Drills can drill you.  Use caution.
• Soldering irons can solder you.  Use caution.
• Molten solder is like lava from a volcano.  Use caution.
• Fast spinning wheels or drills or rotary tools can tear the skin right off you.  Use caution.
• Forcing something that doesn't fit can cause damage to property or personal injury.  Use caution.
• Connecting electronics incorrectly can release the smoke.  The smoke can't be put back in.  Use caution.  Take pictures if you don't know by heart how parts are connected.
• Batteries can cause fires when not handled properly.  Use caution.
• Some parts are not very durable.  Screw holes may not survive taking a screw out and putting it back in.  Disassemble your RC car at your own risk.

Flexible filament settings (speed kills, baby):

1.6mm walls (or thicker for the roll bar and sides)
35-90% infill (heavy for the roll bar and sides)
217 nozzle
55 bed
18mm/sec
200mm/sec travels
1mm retraction
Supports touching build plate

PLA Settings (heat is higher than usual for strength):

2mm walls

65% infill (or higher)

215 nozzle (this is when stringing starts for me)

55 bed

50mm/sec

5mm retraction

Supports touching build plate

Parts:

1. 1x Ford_Front_Body_Mount_Posts (need to drill holes)
1. or 1x Ford_Front_Body_Mount_Velcro (mount body with hook and loop)
2. 1x RdCt_Roll_Bar_W2D
3. 4x Cage_Mount_Nut_M2 (M2 hole)
1. or 4x Cage_Mount_Nut_M2_5 (M2.5 hole)
4. 2x RdCt_Frnt_Box_Side_V3 (1 mirrored)
5. 2x RdCt_Lwr_Frnt_Box_Side
6. 2x RdCt_Rear_Box_Side_V3 (1 mirrored)
7. 1x RdCt_Tailgate_W2D
8. 1x RdCT_Center_Brace_V3
9. 1x RdCT_Mid_Brace
10. 1x RdCT_Chass_Brace_Tire_Mount
11. 12x M2.5x20mm screws (slightly shorter will work, 4 can be longer)
12. 8x M2.5x15mm screws (slightly shorter or longer may work)
13. 2x M2.5x10mm screws (slightly longer may work)
14. 2x M2x10mm screws

As needed:

1. 2x Cage_Spacer
1. 5mm and 7.5mm provided, stretch if you need longer ones

Instructions:

Note:  You will be drilling holes in your body shell.  If that hurts to think about, you may want to glue the cage to your body shell (Hot glue?  Rubber cement type glue?  I would not recommend this route).  Glue will not make for a durable result but it also won't wreck your body shell.  Also consider using the chassis mounted design.  I take no responsibility for your ability or inability to successfully install this project.

Note:  The parts shown in the pictures are often my prototypes.

• The cage mount nuts are rectangular jobbies, not round ones.  If you want round ones, use the shock spacers from the 12428 Honcho conversion project.
• The V2 parts are better (I hope) for PLA printing.  I don't think the joint between the V3 center brace and the box side will hold up very well printed out of PLA.  Take your pick and let me know how it works out.

1. Attach the right side RdCT_Center_Brace_V3 to RdCt_Roll_Bar_W2D at the mount holes on the upper crossbar part of the roll bar with an M2.5x20mm screw.
   
2. Attach the right side RdCt_Frnt_Box_Side_V3 to the previous assembly using an M2.5x20mm screw at the roll bar and an M2x10mm screw at the center brace.  Repeat for left side.
   
3. Attach the right side RdCt_Lwr_Frnt_Box_Side to the rollbar using an M2.5x15mm screw and to the RdCt_Frnt_Box_Side_V3 using an M2.5x10mm screw.
   
4. Test fit the roll bar to the body (hold it in place) and eyeball the fit
1. Does the cage line up with the rear of the truck?
2. Will the body sit properly on the body mounts?
3. You may need to make adjustments
5. You can drill holes in the body for the roll bar now or assemble the rest of the cage and test fit more precisely.  I drilled them at this point, because my cajones are huge.
1. There is no going back from drilled holes
2. I held the roll bar up to the body and drilled one of the upper corner holes first.  
1. You may want to mark the spot for the hole in some way and then drill.  
2. Be safe, use caution and don't do anything you are uncomfortable with.
6. Attach each RdCt_Rear_Box_Side_V3 to the previous assembly using 1 M2.5x20mm screw and 1 M2.5x15mm screw.
   
7. Attache the RdCt_Tailgate_W2D to the previous assembly using 4 M2.5x20mm screws.
   
   
   
8. Remove the rear inner fenders from your Redcat Gen 8.
9. Install the RdCT_Mid_Brace using the mount points for the inner fenders.  Use the RedCat screws and thread them in approx the same distance as you would if you were installing the inner fenders.
   
10. Remove the Redcat front chassis brace and loosely install the Ford_Front_Body_Mount_Posts or the Ford_Front_Body_Mount_Velcro.
11. Test fit the cage assembly with the body shell (attach cage with two sided tape or hold it in place)
1. Does the rear part of the cage line up correctly with the bumper mount when the body shell is on the body mounts?
1. Adjust body mounts accordingly
12. Once proper fit is determined, drill holes in body shell corresponding to mounting holes in roll cage
13. Attach roll cage assembly to body shell using 4 M2.5x20mm screws and 4 Cage_Mount_Nut_M2_5
    
14. If desired, install the RdCT_Chass_Brace_Tire_Mount, which facilitates mounting the spare tire in the box of the truck.
    

Done like disco.

Wrench to drive or drive to wrench?