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W2D VIII - TRX-4 Hammer Sport Build Guide

 
W2D VIII - TRX-4 Hammer Sport Build Guide

W2D VIII - Hybrid Hammer Sport (XR247 Axles)

W2D VIII - TRX4 Hammer Sport

Basic Cage Assembly (Original version)
Note that the bumper is different on the TRX-4 version (this version)

As I mention on Thingiverse, I highly recommend printing with TPU if you want durability.  95 shore TPU works OK when printed with high infill (mostly solid).  I have a batch of Priline TPU that is objectively harder and I prefer that but I don't know where to find it anymore (last I looked).

A 3D pen lets you weld parts together really easily and I highly recommend investing in one, but this cage is pretty solid assembled with screws and hot glue for the body panels.  Welded, it is bullet proof.

The back roof section with separate braces can be printed on a small bed printer and assembled by glue or welding.  All the other parts fit on a 180x180mm build surface no problem (Kingroon KP3S).  I printed my first one on my old Ender 3 and it works fine at about 20mm/sec, but the Kingroon KP3S is far superior for TPU IMO.  The direct drive lets you print at 45mm/sec no problem and the quality of TPU prints is definitely better right out of the box.  If you can live with a 180mm build surface the KP3S is a bargain at $225cdn.

BOM: TRX-4 Version

1x CG_Back_Frame_V2.stl

1x CG_Back_Roof.stl

or

      1x CG_Back_Roof_V2.stl

      1x CG_Back_Brace.stl

      1x CG_Back_Brace.stl (mirrored)

      1x CG_Back_Brace_Sleave.stl

      1x CG_Back_Brace_Sleave.stl (mirrored)

1x CG_Hood_V3.stl

or

      1x CG_Hood_V2.stl

      1x GOM_Front_Cross_Bar.stl

1x CG_L_Side.stl

1x CG_L_Side.stl (mirrored)

1x CG_Roof_Wind.stl

1x GOMTRX4_Bumper_test.stl

1x TRX4_Rr_Body_Brace_Tall.stl

1x TRX4_Rr_Body_Clip_V2.stl

1x TRX4_Rr_Bumper_Mount.stl

1x BD_Hood_wP.stl

1x BD_Roof_wP.stl

1x BD_Side_wP.stl

1x BD_Side_wP.stl (mirrored)

Optional Front Shock Mounts

1x Mnt1_PnHd_V1.stl

1x Mnt2_PnHd_V1.stl

1x Mnt2_V1.stl

1x Mnt2_V1.stl (mirrored)

1x Mnt_Cross_Brace_V1.stl


Running Redcat XR247 axles requires moving the servo forward and mounting the panhard bar on the front side of the metal mount.

1x TRX4_RdCt_Servo_Mount_V2.stl


14x M2.5x15mm screws (various cage joints)

2x M2.5x10mm screws (rear roof to main roof)

2x M3x20mm screws (rear bumper mount to cage brace)

2x M3x10mm screws (rear cage clip pivot screws)

4x M3x12mm screws (front shock mount halves)

2x M3x15mm screws for front cross brace

4x M3 screws to fit shocks (depends on what you have, mine are 25mm)

2x M3x20mm screws for vertical stiffening of front shock mounts

2x zip tie for the front hinge


  1. Screw together the cage parts as shown in the assembly picture
  2. For separate rear braces, screw the bottom in place and either plastic weld the top or use the sleeves and glue/weld them over the braces.
  3. Screw and/or plastic weld the front cross bar in place (printed in place or separate both need to be screwed/welded.
  4. Screw the front bumper to the TRX4 chassis.
  5. Zip tie the cage to the front bumper.
  6. Screw the rear bumper mount to the TRX4 chassis.
  7. Screw the TRX4_Rr_Body_Brace_Tall to the rear bumper mount using 2x M3x20mm screws
  8. Screw the TRX4_Rr_Body_Clip_V2 to the body brace using 2x M3x10mm screws
  9. Optional:  If you want to run XR247 straight axles, replace the stock TRX4 servo mount with TRX4_RdCt_Servo_Mount_V2
  10. Optional:  Install TRX4_Hm_Rear_Body_Mount on each side of the rear shock mount for additional support of the cage.  You may need to massage these to fit you shock mounts.  They are not needed unless you are bashing hard.
  11. Optional:  The front is set up to use TRX4_FR_Body_Mount for additional support (see holes in the hood cage part) but I haven't seen the need.  

Front TPU Shock Mounts

Front TPU Shock Mounts

Rear Shock Mounts and Brace

If you need shock mounts, I highly recommend the Injora metal shock mounts shown in the photos.  They were approx $20cdn ($15 US) and are good quality.  The TPU ones I included work OK if you can get the panhard mount stiff enough.  I used welding wire to tension it.  The way I wired it is not the best way, just the way I wrangled it in there on the first try.  There needs to be a fair bit of tension on the wire.  If you don't have welding wire, you can ask for some "MIG wire" at pretty much any shop and they will probably help you out.  Thickness doesn't matter too much, the stuff I have is 1mm.



I'm not positive that stock TRX4 electronics fit inside the cage because the sides might be a little tight.  I don't run the stock receiver box or Traxxas ESC, I mount the bits as I see fit because I don't do a lot of water/mud running.

I built this from TRX4 parts ordered off Jenny's RC (JRC) and my all in total is just a hair over $500cdn.  The power system is a cheap ($50) 60A ESC and 3660 2600KV motor.  Wheels are metal and tires are Injora cheapos ($55).  XR247 axles are off EBay and aren't super easy to find right now ($100-130).  Chinese Wraith axles should work OK if you want to run a straight axle setup for more speed and less roll overs.  You could also run wideners but the steering isn't the greatest with them.  The Rhino in the pictures is running 10mm wideners and 130mm tires on 2.2 wheels.






Do you wrench to drive or drive to wrench?















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